Feeling trapped,
with no escape route available, Jitters displayed a common defensive behavior —
fear aggression. This was not a stealth attack. In most cases, the cat will
make his feelings known — as
Jitters did —
through vocalizations, such as growling, hissing and spitting and baring his
teeth. His hunched-up body will be as tight as a spring, ready to dart forward
for a quick bite or to roll over to expose punishing claws if these warnings
are not heeded. Back off, and you will usually avoid attack.
While all cats
are afraid of something, some cats have a lower threshold to stressors than
others do and are more prone to aggressive reactions. For example, a
well-socialized kitten who came from a healthy mother is generally more stable
than one kept isolated from other people and animals. You can help your cat and
avoid a replay of defensive aggression by first ascertaining what stresses him
to a degree at which he feels he must protect himself. Is it new people, loud
noises or a change in the environment? If so, try setting him up in a quiet
part of the home when things get hectic and then make plans to begin a
desensitization program as soon as things settle down.
First determine
how close or how loud the fearful stimulus has to be to the cat to cause him
concern. Your starting point should be just inside his comfort zone. If your
cat is fearful of strangers who walk into the kitchen, have them begin by just
poking their heads in the doorway or even standing a few feet outside. Ask them
to avoid looking at the cat. If the cat does not appear stressed, reward him
with a tasty morsel. Repeat the process a few times. When your cat acts
comfortable in their presence, have them approach a step closer, utter a word
or two or make an arm movement — something small. With repetition, the cat
should connect the rewards to the appearance of the formerly scary people and
actually acclimate to, if not outright welcome, them. In severe cases, you may
need to obtain an anti-anxiety product from your veterinarian or consult with
an applied animal behaviorist before you begin.
The Next Best Thing
Redirected
aggression may be the most dangerous type of aggression. This can occur when
the cat becomes intensely aroused by a loud, startling noise; the sight, smell
or sounds of another animal; or unfamiliar people or places. With adrenaline
pumping, he yowls, growls, stares, stalks and attacks whoever happens to walk
by. Caretakers who have experienced this fury firsthand often remark that they
had to “peel the cat off.” Overexcited, the cat can remain aroused and
threatening for up to six hours. After one of these incidents, it is best to
sequester the cat in a dark, quiet room or, if handling the cat is impossible,
for the family to leave the home for several hours. The cat needs time to calm
down and return to normal, or minor stimulation will reactivate the cat’s
aggression.
Redirected
aggression attacks, dangerous as they are, are usually one-time events. Some
sensitive cats, however, continue to overreact if the stimulus that sets them
off is not removed. This stimulus varies in each situation. It could be a new
cat who has moved into the backyard, or a son home from college who insists on
playing basketball in the house. Removing the stray cat or confiscating the
basketball would be the logical first step. In cases where the source of
agitation cannot be removed, an attempt at desensitizing the cat to the
stressor might be made. Due to the inherent danger in redirected aggression,
this program is best carried out under the supervision of a behaviorist. Family
members should be taught to avoid the cat if arousal signals are evident; but
if the case is severe and the stressor cannot be removed, re-homing the cat
into a less stressful environment may be necessary.
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